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We’ve teamed up with Wisconsin Cheese for an interview mini-series known as Meet the Makers, that includes a sampling of the state’s most interesting cheesemakers and their award-winning creations.
In 2019 I used to be fortunate sufficient to attend the annual American Cheese Society Awards, hosted that yr in Richmond, Virginia. Of the numerous fond recollections I’ve from that journey, there’s one specifically that tends to rise to the highest of my thoughts every time I’m reflecting on it: a large sea of proud Wisconsin cheesemakers cheering one another on because the state took house win after win for its unimaginable cheeses. I misplaced rely of the variety of awards that the state’s cheesemakers took house for cheddars and cheese curds—I’d anticipated them to shine in these classes. What I wasn’t anticipating was for a Wisconsin cheesemaker to take house not one, however two awards for Gouda, a cheese I’d lengthy related solely with Europe.
That yr, Marieke Gouda took house 1st place within the Worldwide-Type with Taste Added class for his or her Bacon Gouda and 2nd place in that very same class for his or her Foenegreek Gouda. However how did award-winning Gouda make its strategy to the midwest? I sat down with Marieke Penterman, founding father of Marieke Gouda, to seek out out.
This interview has been edited and condensed for readability.
MADISON TRAPKIN: What introduced you to Wisconsin?
MARIEKE PENTERMAN: I grew up on a dairy farm within the Netherlands on a 60-cow farm. Holland could be very small, it suits about 5 instances within the state of Wisconsin, and we’ve about 18 million individuals, which makes [farming] fairly difficult and really costly. So to ensure that [my family] to proceed dairy farming, we wished to look overseas and the place else are you able to go if you happen to love cows and good cheese? Wisconsin, after all.
Wisconsin is America’s Dairyland, in order that is smart! How did you make your strategy to the cheesemaking aspect of issues?
I’ve [always been] very proud to be a dairy farmer right here in Wisconsin, however after a short while, I used to be lacking my good kaas from Holland. I’d go to the shop right here and I’d discover great, stunning cheeses, however I could not discover good Gouda. [I had a] loopy thought to start out making [it] as a result of we had good Wisconsin milk proper right here on the farm and it appeared like an amazing thought. The one downside I had was that I didn’t know how you can make cheese.
Ah, a minor element.
I had to return to high school right here in Wisconsin to get my cheesemaker’s license, which I did in October 2006. However that didn’t imply that I knew how you can make Gouda. So, I needed to [go] again to Holland [where I] labored with a woman who had 10 cows and a dairy farmer that had 200 cows and it was actually fascinating to see what the distinction between a smaller and an even bigger Gouda producer was.
Photograph by Dusan Harminc
What are an important issues to contemplate once you’re making Gouda?
As a Gouda cheesemaker you’ll be able to play along with your cultures, after all, however [you can also play with things like] your water—how a lot water do you add? And [what’s] the temperature of it? How lengthy do you wash it? These are all essential substances [that go] into creating your individual recipe. I made my very first batch of Gouda in November of 2006.
What makes Marieke Gouda so distinctive?
To start with, I am very happy with our cows. They produce a really prime quality of milk and [we are] a farmstead creamery, which signifies that we’ve cows proper right here on the farm. When the cows are being milked, that milk goes straight by way of a pipeline beneath the bottom into our cheese vat, so more energizing than you may get it [from elsewhere]. It’s the prime quality of milk and the actually fast approach of us with the ability to make it right into a scrumptious wheel of Gouda ([which happens] inside 5 hours) that makes our cheese actually distinctive.
How does your Gouda examine to Dutch Gouda?
We do import among the cheese tools from the Netherlands simply to come back as carefully as potential to the Dutch approach of constructing it. A few of our substances come from the Netherlands, like our cultures and a few of our herbs, however we aren’t as adventurous within the Netherlands as we’re right here in the US. [At Marieke Gouda], we’re a bit extra extravagant with our flavors.
That jogs my memory of your Foenegreek Gouda—the place did the concept for this taste combo come from?
The primary time that I used to be cooking the [with this] herb it made my complete kitchen scent horrible, to be sincere. It smelled a bit bit bitter and I used to be undecided if I wished so as to add it to it, however we did not need to waste it both, so we added it to our very first batch of Foenegreek Gouda. [This cheese] makes use of a seed that tastes a bit bit nutty, however smells like maple syrup. It’s very expensive to me as a result of it is one in all our signature cheeses.
Since making that first wheel in 2006, your cheeses have gained fairly just a few awards! Are you able to inform me about a few of these accolades?
We gained a golden award immediately with our Foenegreek Gouda, which was tremendous thrilling. At the moment we have been simply with three individuals, and now we’re [a] group of fifty individuals…a group coming collectively [and] engaging in nice issues [in order] to make the best of effective Gouda. We simply gained extra awards and that will put us [at] round 250 [awards]. In 2013 we have been nominated [as] the perfect cheese in the US. I additionally name it my inexperienced card as a result of at that time my immigration lawyer stated, “Let’s qualify you for the extraordinary capability route,” which they accepted.
Photograph by Dusan Harminc
What an incredible inexperienced card story!
I am truly the primary cheesemaker that received her a inexperienced card that approach.
I consider it.
In 2011, I used to be nominated because the Grand Grasp Cheesemaker within the Wisconsin State Truthful. [I was] the primary lady to have ever achieved that, so it was actually an honor. And I form of like successful.
It looks like there’s fairly a little bit of successful happening for you. What’s it wish to be a part of the Wisconsin cheesemaking neighborhood amongst so many different winners?
I began my profession as a result of I used to be lacking Gouda from my house nation and I wished to start out a enterprise earlier than I turned 30. I stumbled into this trade [filled with] camaraderie and I fell in love with the individuals. I am a really proud cheesemaker, particularly [in] Wisconsin, as a result of the persons are great. They share their ardour, and I feel that is one thing that bonds us normally on this trade. Wisconsin is chilly, however the individuals within the trade are very heat and passionate.
I hear you’re working in your Grasp Cheesemaker Certification. What’s the method like?
Sure, I am very proud to say that they accepted me within the Grasp Cheesemaker program. Ten years after you might have your cheesemakers license, you’ll be able to apply for the Grasp Cheesemaker program, which is a tricky approval course of. I form of [wanted to] postpone it as a result of I used to be a bit bit nervous and once I lastly went by way of the entire course of they usually accepted me, I used to be very pleased.
I’ve realized a lot and it exhibits how a lot Wisconsin cares and the extent of data that’s required to make actually good cheese. If every little thing goes nicely, then I hope to have the ability to get my certification in 2025, which might make me the fourth lady Licensed Grasp Cheesemaker in the US.
That may be actually unimaginable! I’m certain you’ll make it to that stage. What else does the long run maintain for Marieke Gouda?
Loads of thrilling issues. We began mainly with nothing 17 years in the past, and I can’t wait to see what we’ll do in 5 years, ten years, and even 15 years down the highway. One factor that’s for certain [is that] we need to make the perfect Gouda in the entire vast world.
What’s your favourite taste of Marieke Gouda? Inform us within the feedback beneath!
Our associates at Wisconsin Cheese are dedicated to showcasing all of the wonderful cheeses the state has to supply—and there is lots of them. Wisconsin has extra flavors, varieties, and types of cheese than anyplace else on the earth. From Italian classics like Parmesan and ricotta to Wisconsin Originals like Colby and Brick, this cheese-obsessed state has a bit one thing for everybody. Discover out extra about Wisconsin Cheese by visiting their website.
